Small but significant signs of corruption

Everyone knows that things are done slightly differently in Africa.  After all,  it is what Mark, our tour leader/truck driver continually says, “ TIA people, TIA”.  TIA = This Is Africa. At first there is a small trickle of innocent signs of corruption – especially in Uganda.  To see the Gorillas we used a local “fixer” to get us there.  An efficient way for us to navigate very tricky physical terrain and local red-tape.  However, the fixer was subsequently paid a commission by any person who earned money off us 7 mzungus – whether he was involved in the arrangements or not. It felt entirely wrong – this arrogant man taking money off people – because they think he did this great deed bringing a group of white people to their country.  What they don't know is that mzungu come to Africa in droves and are limited only by the number of permits the Government issue.  These fixers take advantage of their fellow countrymen's naivety, people who work hard and are grateful for whatever work they can get.

But in Tanzania the corruption was more blatant – officials pulling over trucks without cause, making up reasons for why they are pulled over, and making up arbitrary fines that are to be paid in cash on the spot.  Mark and Lindy are savvy and level-headed in those circumstances and have so far avoided having to be paid such “fines”.  In Zanzibar officials on the road would pull over our taxi and demand that the taxi driver give the official his 1.5L bottle of water.  Just like that.  One one particular stretch our driver got pulled over more than once and each time the official asked for water.  One particular time the taxi driver had to buy a packet of cigarettes and put a nominal amount of money in the cigarette packet for the official.

As a traveller I find myself trying not to pass judgement – things are not right or wrong – its just as they are.  I know fully well that corruption is alive and well in the West – its just that however small  signs of corruption can significantly affect the wellbeing of those who struggle each day living below the poverty line.