- The first are rather trying bus journeys. The distances may not be long, but the terrain is difficult - deep valleys - long winding roads - very few bridges. Local buses are cheap but difficult on the nerves for the roads can be narrow and the cliffsides steep. Then you have to be comfortable peeing one the side of the road or wherever you can because public toilets are very hard to find. So on long bus trips (which have no toilets) this means taking a pee break at every stop because you never know when the next stop is going to be! But having travelled to Africa this year, I am much more expert at discreet peeing than I was previously. You have to act swiftly, for you don't know how long the bus is going to stop - you have to find a good shadowy spot but be able to see the bus at all times. My efforts in Potosi were outstanding - it was raining and I found a fabulous spot and was in and out of the bus in less than 2 minutes. The other gringo girls who went in search of a traditional loo had much to learn.
- The second thing I remember about Bolivia was the poverty - six years have passed and things are slowly changing for indigenous peoples in Bolivia. I was talking to a Norwegian woman (at our hotel in La Paz) who has been researching output of international aid in Bolivia for the past decade and there are small but significant signs of improvements in quality of life for the poor and sustainability in local economies. For example, there are better health care provisions - more people have identity cards and therefore can vote - and a wider provision of free education for youngsters. But there are still a large number of extremely poor people in this country, and corruption in political circles is still deeply problematic. But I am taken aback by how visible the middle class Bolivians have become. The tourist trail is now not just for white gringos - many Bolivians are actively travelling around South America and internationally.
- Protests - some things don't change - Bolivians are not shy of protesting - of saying to their Government and business community that there is much that can be improved. Last time I had to walk all my gear nearly 2km out of Potosi (nearly 4000m altitude) to get past the blockades to the buses that would take us to Uyuni. That time it was miners striking for better working conditions and fair pay. This time the bus drivers were striking in Sucre (we managed to get one of the last buses out of the city) and a mixture of workers and students (and professors) striking over a number of days in La Paz. Lighting fire crackers at 10am seems to be a normal thing to do in Bolivia - but each time it still scares the living daylights out of me!
- The dignity and charm of Bolivianos. I cannot say enough about how wonderful these people are - they are so friendly, modest, generous and contented of people. OK so I'm naturally a happy and inquisitive person - so it isn't uncommon for me to look at people, wonder about their lives and smile - but what amazes me is how quickly the majority of Bolivianos are to smile back at you. And not just a small timid smile - a big whopper of a grin. I see so many people who live with ongoing hardship and yet I am amazed at how quick they are to smile and laugh. Everywhere I have been in Bolivia thus far, I have been greeted by warm hearted and sincere locals who want you to love their country as much as they do - the good and the bad. I get the biggest smiles from older people - and it warms my heart so that I have often been on the verge of tears. Bernard just smiles at me.
Other things that we've enjoyed:
- The range of beer - not just lager and full of flavour.
- The landscapes are stunning and varied.
- The value for money is exceptional - quality food and accommodation (huge rooms, mezzanine levels, outstanding views, TV, ensuite etc)
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