Its been a wonderful few days, soaking up the sunshine on a beach in Zanzibar. Its been the first day in about eight days where my tummy feels fine without any medical intervention. To say that I've been pushed outside my comfort levels with regards to my digestive system this past fortnight is somewhat of an understatement. But I don't think its food related per say, but rather camping for four weeks on a thin mattress, enduring very long and bumpy roads, getting used to new foods and drinks, and of course the trauma of anti-malaria tablets that have caused most individuals on tour incredible havoc to their digestive system.
So today, having slept in on a wonderful king size bed, with ensuite, air-conditioning and a stone's throw from the beach has been rather blissful. Zanzibar couldn't be further away from the Serengeti if it tried. The island has its own distinct feel, the expanse of white beaches are intoxicating but cause havoc on white skin that doesn't have an appropriate base layer. Almost everyone who went out into the ocean today got horribly sunburnt despite the rigorous application of sunscreen. I of course, did not burn to a crisp, but that's probably because I spent a great amount of the day enjoying the view from under layers of clothing and a shade umbrella, rather than sunbathing or snorkelling. Similarly, Bernard also emerged relatively unscathed. We are among the few who also apply 50plus sunscreen - one of those few occasions where the higher factor clearly has a greater impact.
So since last entry we have gone from Arusha to Zanziabar. Big driving days, big distances, broken up with a few rest days along the way. We did indeed view Kili on our way past Moshi. I was the most vigilant on the bus - spending an entire half hour waiting for Kili to come into view pre-and post Moshi- we didn't see a complete view, but when the ice-capped areas came into view I squealed with delight and the rest of the truck knew that the "Roof of Africa" had come into view. My pictures are not impressive to say the least, but I spent an age trying desperately to get a shot of the iconic mountain. Fabulous stuff. The scenery around Tanzania is pretty amazing. The majority of the drive from Moshi to Dar Es Salam was flanked by a monstrous escarpment with bushes growing that look like pineapples but clearly were not. We found out later that this is the plant that makes hessian. Our first night on camp towards Zanzibar the heavens opened and I fell asleep to heavy rain droplets falling on our tent. It was a relatively blissful sleep that night. Bernard however, woke up with a wet bottom of sleeping bag, one of the pitfalls of being a tall - his head and feet hit both edges of the tent.
We eventually arrived to Dar Es Salam (Dar) and its infamous traffic. We got stopped at a traffic light for an age to allow a motorcade go through with some official, whether it was the president or not I'm not sure. The camp site was fabulous, on the ocean with a fabulous beach. We were awoken at 4.15am by the call to prayer from a number of local mosques. It was a unique experience to be awoken in such a manner. Luckily enough we had to be on the road by 6am so the wake-up call was relatively pleasant. Many who have spent time in Muslim countries will know what the sound is like - I can honestly say, hand on heart, that the chant sounded to me like... "Mmwwahhh Lizzzzz wake up - Lllllliiiizzzz - wake up....."
Crossed the ferry to Zanzibar and have spent a few days in heaven in a beautiful room with four poster bed and view of the ocean. Today we made our way to a turtle colony during high tide, and had to carry our non-waterproof items high above our heads as we walked along the shoreline that might have been submerged at one point all the way to our neck. It was fantastic. I was extremely nervous along the way but it was one hell of an adventure. I have spent t a few hours catching up on internet access - found out my father is doing extremely poorly so I sent you a thousand well wishes Papa smurf. Otherwise, all is well for Bernard and I. Tomorrow we head into Stone Town to visit the historic spice area as well as the slave market and the night market. I'm pretty excited but am also sad to be leaving such paradise.
I think of people back home, wherever you are. Its been a month since I left the UK - how quickly time flies. Its also approaching Christmas and yet it doesn't feel like Christmas at all - it just isn't the same in southern hemisphere climates. I am looking forward to Cape Town considerably - even though there are bunches of fun stuff to happen before then. I have decided to go Skydiving in Namibia - though this may increase the blood pressure of my mother tremendously!!! I will also be going Gorge Swinging and White Water Rafting in Livingstone NP in Zambia.
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